“Wherever you go in India, there´s amoment,” my friend Phil said, as we shared a sunset drink on a walled terrace overlooking the vast stretch of flat Rajasthani countryside below. More often than not, in a land of vibrant colours, intoxicating smells and overwhelming sights, these ‘moments’ are energetic. But Phil was spot-on. As the burning sun descended though dusty haze and beyond the horizon, hues of burnt umber folded softly on the stone-work around us. A myriad of artificial lights sparkled across the nearest buildings. This was indeed a special moment. Our location for this spectacle was Neemrana Fort- Palace, India’s oldest heritage hotel, built on a high plateau just off the main road from Delhi to Jaipur. The fort dates back to 1464. Restored in the late 1980s as a hotel, its historic structure has been skilfully rebuilt and renewed, with carpets, hangings, light fittings and antique furniture, fashioned by some of India’s best craftsmen. New wings, courtyards and terraces have been added in an imaginative neo-Rajput style. Warren-like corridors dip and turn through 10 levels.
Arcaded reception halls and dining rooms, bedrooms and private balconies, lush green gardens and even a Roman-style amphitheatre – for performances of traditional Indian music and dance – reflect a princely hybrid of Indian and colonial design. Climb towards the top and you’ll reach one of Neemrana’s most alluring jewels – Raj Kund, a swimming pool set on a spectacular terrace overlooking the village below and the dusty panorama beyond. Inside the cool interior, 45 eclectic bedroom suites are named rather than numbered. The most exquisite of these is Chandra Mahal, formerly a courtroom, where actress Kate Winslet once stayed. Neemrana is very much a retreat, where guests come to unwind, practice yoga and take advantage of the Ayurvedic spa. The author Pico Iyer described it as “an enchanting and magical location”. By day, it’s a great place to while away a few hours exploring the rambling interior, sipping tea on one of the many pretty balconies, or simply relaxing by the pool. At night, food is served alfresco in the grand courtyard, with charcoal stoves beside your table to take any chill out of the night air. Despite its atmospheric and architectural splendour, Neemrana is not altogether perfect. The service can be frustratingly slow, and hidden extras may well appear on your bill. But these inefficiencies can’t detract from its rustic charms. And, of course, there’s that glorious sunset – a ‘moment’ in every sense.
Village Neemrana, District Alwar,Rajasthan 301705, India