I have just returned from four days in Swedish Lapland at the Icehotel in Jukkasjarvi. I was there for three days, the first two spent in an Ikea-style cabin, and one in the Icehotel itself – sleeping on a bed of ice in a magical ice castle, trying out dog sledding, cross-country skiing and snowmobile rides, and gazing at the Northern Lights. Sounds nice doesn’t it? And I know it’s something thatmy nine-year-old would love.But on this occasion I couldn’t take Tom because he was with his dad,so I went with the boyfriend instead. But the four-day break left me completely cold – and not for the right reasons. I found it to be totally unsuitable for families,overly expensive, ill conceived and badly organised. And my views were shared, as I discovered from other guests who have contacted me since the holiday. Don’t get me wrong, the ice hotel as a concept works.There are other ice hotels and palaces around the world, after all. But this place bills itself as being the first. It’s a hotel constructed completely of ice, built afresh each year on a vast frozen lake.They invite artists from all over the world to design sculptures for the bedroom suites in which guests sleep. You would only want to do this once and,perhaps knowing this, tour operators charge a premium price. One couple I spoke to had spent more than £1,500 per person, plus extras (like food), on their three-day trip.
They later found out that they could get a 10-day wilderness break in the same area for the same price – with all food included. Fundamentals were also badly thought out.Considering temperatures can reach well below freezing, especially at night, and it’s an activity holiday, there’s a need to be fed often and well.There were two restaurants near to the Icehotel,both serving fussy,semi-Cordon Bleu food,in just two sittings – at six and nine. If you didn’t eat at those times,you didn’t eat. If you asked for snacks, their responses were curt and negative.The waiting times were horrendous, with guests often waiting more than 40 minutes for their main course. Families were waiting and children became fractious. The excursions were inconsistent and over-priced. Cross-country skiing,which lasted just over an hour, cost £70 per head.Compare this with the equivalent in Canada,where the same activity is run by the ice hotel in Québec (pictured above) for a fraction of the cost. No training was given, and a family of five was left stranded – the hot drink and cake they were promised failed to materialise.
So, lessons learnt:always remember when booking family holidays to ask clearly if the package/hotel/resort is suitable for children at certain age ranges, and if possible ask to speak to other families who have visited the destination. Perhaps my expectations were too high. I have been fortunate enough to sample several Arctic wilderness experiences in Canada and,although one has to travel further,in my opinion, they are far superior in every way.That goes for price, welcome, product, excursions and scenery, both on the east and west coasts.This is where to take your kids. Staying at an ice hotel is a once in a lifetime experience,which you are better off trying somewhere good.
Ice Hotel, 98191 Jukkasjarvi Sweden